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Advanced Pattern Cutting Week 4

Toile 1

My pattern for toile 1 worked quite well, I was happy with the pockets, the thickness of the waistband and the length, however, I hadn't achieved the ballooned silhouette and tapered hem I wanted, so I need to amend my patterning to allow for more volume on the leg panels in the correct places.



1. Make the waistband slightly thicker.

2. Mark notches where the pocket decor will be attached to ensure they are in line.

3. Make the fly and placket larger for a better overlap.


1. Make panel wider at the top to make the plate more pronounced and add volume to the trouser.

2. Move the plate closer to the fly

3. Make the leg taper more at the bottom.

4. Expand leg pattern at the knee to create volume.


1. Make the CB wider for a better fit.

To make the CF wider at the knee:

- Mark in where the new plate will be. My plate has moved to be 3cm from the fly.

- cut down the center line of the plate to the knee line and expand the plate to add volume.

- cut along the knee line and split the bottom of the leg into 2 pieces to create 4 individual pieces.

- keep the bottom hem of the trouser aligned- stick it down with masking tape.

- keep the waistline aligned and add in spacing for however big you want to make the new plate.

- measure how much you want to widen the leg by at the knee.

- stick down your panels in their new alignment.

-trace around the new leg pattern and blend the lines in to create your new leg pattern.

- Mark on the pattern where the darts are placed and where the notches should be.

- sew together like before using the new pattern peices.

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