I'm going to go through the technical processes and information for each of the textiles in my final textile collection.
For the other developmental textiles, I have marked them with their information in my surplus padlet.
Plush Sample
Yarns: - base is 2/11 Lambswool in ecru from Uppingham yarns
- Darning structure is with 2/9 Lambswool in Oatmeal from JC Rennie
- French knots are in 2/9 Lambswool in Oatmeal, 2/11 Lambswool in peach and gold embroidery thread.
Gauge: 7 Gauge Dubied machine.
Tension: 12 on all cams
Method:
- cast on 40 - 0 - 40 Needles with waste yarn
- knit up about 20 rows
- complete draw thread edge and set row counter to 0
- knit up plain for 20 rows
- Transfer all front bed stitches to the back bed and keep all the front bed needles in action
- cancel cam 7 and cam 1
- increase tension to 13 across all cams
*
- knit 2 rows
- cancel yarn feeder and cancel cams 2 and 3
- pull the carriage across from left to right and back again, throwing off all the stitches on the front bed, if any are stuck manually remove them.
- return cams 2 and 3 to working position
* repeat this until you have knitted up a good amount of fabric. It takes four passes of the carriage to knit 1 row so for patterning you would need to times your row count by 4 to get the rows you need.
- Wash your knit thoroughly
- Damage the knit by sanding with sandpaper and trimming the plush down roughly to create an organically damaged texture
- Darn over any wholes that were created.
- Use a french knit stitch to rebuild the plush texture where it has worn away, change your colours around to create a more interesting pattern.
- wash knit again.
Patchwork Sample 1
Yarns: - Oatmeal Lambswool 2/9
- White Lambswool 2/9
- Gold Embroidery Thread
Gauge: Domestic machine with punchcard
Tension: 8
Method:
- Cast on a large portion of your needle bed.
- knit up 8 rows, attach weights
- set carriage to KC
- knit 1 row
- set carriage to MC
- knit pattern up for as long as you need.
- wash knit thoroughly, using fairy liquid and warm water to felt it.
- Tumble dry to further felt the knit.
- Cut into small abstract-shaped pieces.
- start to sew the pieces together forcing sides that don't match together to create strange forms.
- Darn over week areas with gold thread.
Patchwork Sample 2
Yarns:- White 2/9 Lambswool
- Pink 2/11 Lambswool
Darning Yarns:
- Red 2/9 Lambswool
- Oatmeal 2/9 Lambswool
- Ecru Aran Lambswool
Gauge: Domestic Machine with Punchcard
Tension: 8
Method: The same method as the first sample except you wash the sample after sewing the pieces together, then darn on top. This flattens out the form.
Deliberately Made Wrong
Yarns: Red:- Red Acrylic 2/11
- Pink cotton 2/17
Bordeaux: - Bordeaux Acrylic 2/11
- Pink cotton 2/17
Oatmeal:- Oatmeal Lambswool 2/11
- Pink Cotton 2/17
Gauge: 7 Gauge
Tension: 12
Method:
- Cast on with waste yarn
- knit up about 40 rows
- complete draw thread edge and set row counter to 0
- set up the yarn with plating yarn
- knit up plain
To create a hole
- Decide where the hole will be placed
- pass the carriage across the knit until you reach where the hole will be then stop.
- start to pull the carriage back the other way, not completing the row and dropping the stitches where you stopped.
- you can continue to knit on one side of the hole to create an unbalanced knit.
- alternatively, to close the hole run the carriage back across the full row, go slow, and be careful.
- keep running the carriage across until there is enough knit to attach a claw weight where the hole is to restore its tension.
For raw edge
- Instead of casting off the knit or putting it onto waste yarn, simply let it fall off the machine.
- bring it to an embellisher and embellish close to the edge to make sure it does not unravel.
Ladder Sample
Yarns: Bordeaux Acrylic 2/11
Gauge: Domestic Machine
Tension: 10
Method:
- Cast on your needles
- knit up and add weights
- keep knitting up and at random points open a lace hole and leave the needle out of action to create a ladder.
- pull the needle forward to close the ladder.
- do this at random points across the knit for random lengths.
Reclaimed Textile
Yarn: 30% viscose 70% cotton Blend
Gauge: Domestic Machine
Tension: 10
Method: ( to harvest textile)
Watch video bellow
For this specific knit:
-cast on every second needle
- knit up and add weights
- at random points pull forward an out-of-work needle or a cluster of them to create a built-up area of knitting in contrast to the more open part.
- Put those needles back out of action, creating a patch of full knit.
Extended Cushion Stitch
Yarns: Bordeaux Acrylic 2/11
Ecru aran lambswool
Gauge: Domestic Machine
Tension: 8
Method:
- cast on your needles with the Bordeaux acrylic
- knit up about 6 rows and add weights
- start elongated stitches by manually pulling forward all of your needles.
- lay your thick yarn across the needles and manually pull the needles to the back of the knit bed creating a longer stitch.
- pull the knit down to reset the needles to a working position
- knit across 2 rows with the acrylic.
-repeat with shaping to create your shapes.
Finishing:
- take your Bordeaux acrylic and a crochet hook to crochet a border around the edge of your sample. Encase the furthest most cushion stitch in the acrylic to create a stronger loop that will allow the pieces to be laced together without damaging the overall structure.
Rib with extended Crochet Cast Off
Yarns: Red 2/9 Lambswool
Gauge: Domestic machine and Ribber
Tension: 4 and 4
Method:
- Cast on using double bed cast-on method for 1x1 rib
- knit up 40 rows
- unhook yarn from the machine and using a crochet hook pick up the last stitch that was knitted from the machine.
- using the unhooked yarn create a chain stitch of any length
- once you have a length you are happy with, pick up your next stitch along and do the same again.
* the more varied lengths of chains the better.
Quilted Knit
Yarns: Red 2/9 Lambswool
Materials: 100% cotton wadding
Gauge: Domestic Machine
Tension: 8
Method:
- knit 2 panels of 40-0-40 stitches and 80 rows
- knit 2 panels of 80-0-80 stitches and 50 rows
- wash pieces
- Cut 2 pieces of wadding that match the size of the large panels
- Cut 2 pieced of wadding that matches the size of the smaller panels
- place the two large knit panels right sides together, place the large wadding panels on top and sew around three edges keeping one open.
- repeat this with the other panels
- turn all pieces inside out so that the wadding is encased inside the knitting.
- quilt random lines across the panels that cross over at random points.
- close off the open edges.
- gather the longer piece to match the bottom edge of the first piece
- sew them together.
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