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Textile Collection: Technical Journal

I'm going to go through the technical processes and information for each of the textiles in my final textile collection.

For the other developmental textiles, I have marked them with their information in my surplus padlet.




Plush Sample

Yarns: - base is 2/11 Lambswool in ecru from Uppingham yarns

- Darning structure is with 2/9 Lambswool in Oatmeal from JC Rennie

- French knots are in 2/9 Lambswool in Oatmeal, 2/11 Lambswool in peach and gold embroidery thread.


Gauge: 7 Gauge Dubied machine.

Tension: 12 on all cams


Method:

- cast on 40 - 0 - 40 Needles with waste yarn

- knit up about 20 rows

- complete draw thread edge and set row counter to 0

- knit up plain for 20 rows

- Transfer all front bed stitches to the back bed and keep all the front bed needles in action

- cancel cam 7 and cam 1

- increase tension to 13 across all cams

*

- knit 2 rows

- cancel yarn feeder and cancel cams 2 and 3

- pull the carriage across from left to right and back again, throwing off all the stitches on the front bed, if any are stuck manually remove them.

- return cams 2 and 3 to working position

* repeat this until you have knitted up a good amount of fabric. It takes four passes of the carriage to knit 1 row so for patterning you would need to times your row count by 4 to get the rows you need.


- Wash your knit thoroughly

- Damage the knit by sanding with sandpaper and trimming the plush down roughly to create an organically damaged texture

- Darn over any wholes that were created.

- Use a french knit stitch to rebuild the plush texture where it has worn away, change your colours around to create a more interesting pattern.

- wash knit again.




Patchwork Sample 1


Yarns: - Oatmeal Lambswool 2/9

- White Lambswool 2/9

- Gold Embroidery Thread


Gauge: Domestic machine with punchcard

Tension: 8


Method:

- Cast on a large portion of your needle bed.

- knit up 8 rows, attach weights

- set carriage to KC

- knit 1 row

- set carriage to MC

- knit pattern up for as long as you need.


- wash knit thoroughly, using fairy liquid and warm water to felt it.

- Tumble dry to further felt the knit.


- Cut into small abstract-shaped pieces.

- start to sew the pieces together forcing sides that don't match together to create strange forms.

- Darn over week areas with gold thread.



Patchwork Sample 2

Yarns:- White 2/9 Lambswool

- Pink 2/11 Lambswool

Darning Yarns:

- Red 2/9 Lambswool

- Oatmeal 2/9 Lambswool

- Ecru Aran Lambswool


Gauge: Domestic Machine with Punchcard

Tension: 8


Method: The same method as the first sample except you wash the sample after sewing the pieces together, then darn on top. This flattens out the form.




Deliberately Made Wrong

Yarns: Red:- Red Acrylic 2/11

- Pink cotton 2/17

Bordeaux: - Bordeaux Acrylic 2/11

- Pink cotton 2/17

Oatmeal:- Oatmeal Lambswool 2/11

- Pink Cotton 2/17


Gauge: 7 Gauge

Tension: 12


Method:

- Cast on with waste yarn

- knit up about 40 rows

- complete draw thread edge and set row counter to 0

- set up the yarn with plating yarn

- knit up plain


To create a hole

- Decide where the hole will be placed

- pass the carriage across the knit until you reach where the hole will be then stop.

- start to pull the carriage back the other way, not completing the row and dropping the stitches where you stopped.

- you can continue to knit on one side of the hole to create an unbalanced knit.

- alternatively, to close the hole run the carriage back across the full row, go slow, and be careful.

- keep running the carriage across until there is enough knit to attach a claw weight where the hole is to restore its tension.


For raw edge

- Instead of casting off the knit or putting it onto waste yarn, simply let it fall off the machine.

- bring it to an embellisher and embellish close to the edge to make sure it does not unravel.



Ladder Sample

Yarns: Bordeaux Acrylic 2/11


Gauge: Domestic Machine

Tension: 10


Method:

- Cast on your needles

- knit up and add weights

- keep knitting up and at random points open a lace hole and leave the needle out of action to create a ladder.

- pull the needle forward to close the ladder.

- do this at random points across the knit for random lengths.



Reclaimed Textile

Yarn: 30% viscose 70% cotton Blend


Gauge: Domestic Machine

Tension: 10


Method: ( to harvest textile)

Watch video bellow

For this specific knit:

-cast on every second needle

- knit up and add weights

- at random points pull forward an out-of-work needle or a cluster of them to create a built-up area of knitting in contrast to the more open part.

- Put those needles back out of action, creating a patch of full knit.



Extended Cushion Stitch

Yarns: Bordeaux Acrylic 2/11

Ecru aran lambswool


Gauge: Domestic Machine

Tension: 8


Method:

- cast on your needles with the Bordeaux acrylic

- knit up about 6 rows and add weights

- start elongated stitches by manually pulling forward all of your needles.

- lay your thick yarn across the needles and manually pull the needles to the back of the knit bed creating a longer stitch.

- pull the knit down to reset the needles to a working position

- knit across 2 rows with the acrylic.

-repeat with shaping to create your shapes.


Finishing:

- take your Bordeaux acrylic and a crochet hook to crochet a border around the edge of your sample. Encase the furthest most cushion stitch in the acrylic to create a stronger loop that will allow the pieces to be laced together without damaging the overall structure.




Rib with extended Crochet Cast Off

Yarns: Red 2/9 Lambswool


Gauge: Domestic machine and Ribber

Tension: 4 and 4


Method:

- Cast on using double bed cast-on method for 1x1 rib

- knit up 40 rows

- unhook yarn from the machine and using a crochet hook pick up the last stitch that was knitted from the machine.

- using the unhooked yarn create a chain stitch of any length

- once you have a length you are happy with, pick up your next stitch along and do the same again.

* the more varied lengths of chains the better.


Quilted Knit

Yarns: Red 2/9 Lambswool

Materials: 100% cotton wadding


Gauge: Domestic Machine

Tension: 8


Method:

- knit 2 panels of 40-0-40 stitches and 80 rows

- knit 2 panels of 80-0-80 stitches and 50 rows

- wash pieces

- Cut 2 pieces of wadding that match the size of the large panels

- Cut 2 pieced of wadding that matches the size of the smaller panels


- place the two large knit panels right sides together, place the large wadding panels on top and sew around three edges keeping one open.

- repeat this with the other panels

- turn all pieces inside out so that the wadding is encased inside the knitting.

- quilt random lines across the panels that cross over at random points.

- close off the open edges.

- gather the longer piece to match the bottom edge of the first piece

- sew them together.





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